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Question about Emissions Test


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#1 ChaosLex

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 08:22 AM

My 2011 Chevrolet Cruze from CarMax failed its Emissions Test a few months ago. I'm not entirely sure why, but I think it's because there was a light on the dashboard at the time. The light was non-essential as it vanished immediately after I took the test (naturally) and only reappeared briefly before I had my next oil change. The weird thing is, it wasn't a low/change oil light, it had something to do with the electrical system instead.

 

Anyway, I just realized I missed the date to have my retest taken again for free (August 6th) and I still haven't had my car worked on. Do I need to get my car worked on before it's retested or can I take it in there anytime w/o doing so? The writing seems to indicate I need to have my car looked at by a mechanic first, but as the light has vanished, it doesn't appear there's anything for them to do. Also, now that I've missed the deadline to have my car retested for free, will they just charge me the initial fee again or will they also hit me with a late fee too? I know I should probably call the MVA with these questions, but given their congeniality, I'd rather have my teeth pulled.

 

Any thoughts?


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#2 NewMarketSean

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 08:27 AM

Take it to AutoZone, Advance, Pep Boys, etc... and have them hook their computer up to your car to get a reading. If there is anything wrong, you'll know what it is. But if the light is off now, they may not find anything.

 

Sounds like it could be a faulty sensor which could have tripped up the emissions test.

 

I'd probably take it back and explain to them that the light went off after the last emissions test. I don't know what to do about a late fee -- I doubt the MVA will be very forgiving there.


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#3 Pedro Cerrano

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 09:31 AM

You're gonna have to pay the late fee, no doubt about it.

 

Your car failed because a light was on -- if there is a light on it's an automatic fail.  I can tell you from exact personal experience that not servicing the car at all and taking it back with the light off will pass.

 

Any of those car shops have a nifty gadget that can tell you why the light is on and, if they're nice, they can turn it off for you.

 

That said, if the light isn't on now, you should be good to go.


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#4 glenn__davis

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 09:36 AM

Which light was on?  I've never heard of them failing you for just a light being on.  I drove my old Saturn for 50,000 miles with the check engine light on and never failed emissions.



#5 ChaosLex

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 09:37 AM

Fortunately, the late fee is only $15. I was worried there for a moment.

 

Thanks for the advice, gents. I truly do appreciate it.


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#6 You Play to Win the Game

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 09:53 AM

Which light was on?  I've never heard of them failing you for just a light being on.  I drove my old Saturn for 50,000 miles with the check engine light on and never failed emissions.

 

Yeah, I had that happen to me back in the day... it's definitely the check engine light... if they notice it, it's an automatic fail.



#7 Pedro Cerrano

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 09:58 AM

Also, some check engine lights will automatically go off after a certain time period.  They're so lame, instead of a "check engine" light, how about you just put a light in there that tells me exactly what is wrong?  That way I'm not worrying about my engine possibly blowing up if it's just a faulty O2 sensor.


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#8 Mackus

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 10:30 AM

Just buying the code reader for your car online is probably cheaper than taking it into a shop and having them do it for you.  usually cost about $50, and most are compatible with multiple makes and models. 



#9 Pedro Cerrano

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 10:44 AM

I bet a facebook post to all your friends would find someone who owns one. 


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#10 glenn__davis

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 10:57 AM

Just buying the code reader for your car online is probably cheaper than taking it into a shop and having them do it for you.  usually cost about $50, and most are compatible with multiple makes and models. 

 

Our local AutoZone will do it for free, or so I was told by a friend who did it.

 

Maybe I just get nicer emissions guys, or maybe that's a relatively new policy, because seriously I drove that car for 3 years with the light on.



#11 NewMarketSean

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 11:04 AM

Just buying the code reader for your car online is probably cheaper than taking it into a shop and having them do it for you.  usually cost about $50, and most are compatible with multiple makes and models. 

 

Take it to AutoZone or any similar auto store. I looked into buying one of those readers for my old car and it was like $150 and even then it would only tell you simple stuff that an auto store could tell you for free. ABS sensors and the like don't show up on those things. That's the reason I wanted one, because I wanted to know what was wrong with my car before I took it into a shop and they charge $50-100 just to open the hood and hook it up to their own computer.


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#12 1970

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 11:50 AM

Call the DMV and tell them the car's been in the shop and you just got it back. They'll send you a new card and you won't have to pay the extra fee. Worked like a charm. :)

#13 You Play to Win the Game

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 11:55 AM

Call the DMV and tell them the car's been in the shop and you just got it back. They'll send you a new card and you won't have to pay the extra fee. Worked like a charm. :)

 

Except for the whole "call the DMV" thing. ;)



#14 Mackus

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 12:02 PM

Take it to AutoZone or any similar auto store. I looked into buying one of those readers for my old car and it was like $150 and even then it would only tell you simple stuff that an auto store could tell you for free. ABS sensors and the like don't show up on those things. That's the reason I wanted one, because I wanted to know what was wrong with my car before I took it into a shop and they charge $50-100 just to open the hood and hook it up to their own computer.

 

If you know someplace that'll check it for free, then that's also a great alternative.  I just think it's ridiculous when a dealership or someplace tries to charge you $90 just to check the code.  That's exactly as difficult for them as looking at your phone to see what percent charge you've got left on your battery.






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