Somebody please quote this so Rob will see it... he can still ignore it then, but at least he will have seen it...
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No need for a car unless you stay far away from the French Quarter. Take a car into the Quarter and you will regret it.
Depending on which restaurants you go to, you may need a cab once.
For some restaurants, you take the St. Charles street car... but you oughta do that anyway.
You don't need to stay in the French Quarter, but staying nearby would be a good idea.
The French Quarter itself is small... but, even so, there are mini-neighborhoods within it... when you look at a map of it, the places to the far right are likely to be less noisy, without a bunch of loud drunks outside your window... but other spots are OK too... just say away from Bourbon Street, it's the craziest area... just a couple blocks away from it would be good.
We used to stay in a very cool B&B in the Marigny... just a short walk to the Quarter... got to be friends with the guys who owned it, but they sold it and moved to Puerto Vallarta... it's pretty much the same place, dunno anything firsthand about the hospitality aspect of the new owners though...http://www.bandwcour...s.com/home.html If you decide to stay there, I can tell you which rooms are best...
Serious Eats:
For years, we went hunting for the best restaurant in New Orleans... there are *lots* of good choices...
Almost nobody knows about this place because it never makes the tourist hype list, but it became our champ and has never been dethroned... Brigtsen's (pronounced "Brightsens) http://brigtsens.com/awards.html Back when Paul Prudhomme was being a famous on TV, Frank Brigtsen ran his restaurant... when Frank left to start his own place, Prudhomme's place, K-Paul's, had to close for 6 months for "remodeling" Frank's restaurant is very much family run... after Katrina nuked the city, they went to a lot of trouble to keep their entire staff together... including taking extreme steps to ensure that they didn't lose even the busboy... the best waitress there is Sandy, the sister of Mrs Frank... if you ask for her when making reservations, they will do it... you can just ask her what to get, including the best wine for a given meal, and she will do you right while being considerate about your wallet... if you go there, you can get within a block or so by taking the streetcar out to where it turns off of St Charles onto Carrollton...
Upperline is absolutely wonderful... the streetcar will get you close... you'll notice a lady sitting on a stool where she can survey everything that goes on... woe is the employee who doesn't do everything the right way
Commander's Palace is a legend but is also over-hyped in general... the worthwhile thing to do there is their famous Brunch, it too is hyped but is also quite wonderful... even if you don't like Bread Pudding, you will love theirs... the street car will get you quite near it... it's in the Garden District, so if you like walking around looking at cool old houses, a ton of them are nearby... you can also walk around in one of the famous NOLA cemeteries across the street either before or after, you will have seen it in movies...
K-Paul's remains great... just be aware that it's secretly 2 places in one... there is upstairs and then there is downstairs... be sure to get a reservation for upstairs... downstairs is for tourists who don't know any better....
Irene's Cuisine is right in the Quarter and is great...
There are about 30 more I could mention but I won't...
Most of the good restaurants are closed on Monday, some even on Sunday... so plan accordingly...
Cheap, casual eats:
Go to Central Grocery in the Quarter, get a moufellata to go... one of them will feed you both... along with some chips and drinks, it's lunch... find a bench in Jackson Square and watch people while you eat...
Spend an hour or so at Cafe Du Monde... eat way too many great beignets while drinking good coffee and watching people... but don't wear black, the beignets will mark you for the rest of the day...
If you find yourself on Magazine St looking in all the shops full of odd stuff... or in the Garden District gawking at old houses... and if it's afternoon and you need a great lunch, find Joey K's... it's a 1920's NOLA neighborhood restaurant, which means it's better than fine... get the shrimp/oyster po'boys... if you want lettuce and tomato on them, order them "dressed"... plus get their excellent big-ass margarita's... their gumbo is either absolutely great or pretty good, as best I can tell it depends on who was in the kitchen the day before...